The Enduring Legacy of Cone White Oak Selvedge Denim

Preserving a Legacy: The Final Threads of American Denim Craftsmanship

The Revered Heritage of Cone White Oak Denim

Denim aficionados hold a special reverence for Cone White Oak selvedge, affectionately known as “Cone.” This distinguished fabric was masterfully woven on vintage shuttle looms at the erstwhile Cone Denim Mills in Greensboro, North Carolina. Established in 1905, the White Oak mill served as the primary textile provider for renowned brands such as Levi’s, Wrangler, and Lee for much of the 20th century. Its contribution was instrumental in elevating American blue jeans to the status of a cultural emblem, akin to rock ‘n’ roll and classic automobiles. However, following the shift of production by many major brands to Asia and Latin America, the White Oak mill ceased operations in 2017, bringing an end to its iconic Draper looms.

A Collaborative Effort to Honor a Classic

A significant collaboration is underway as Nashville-based independent denim label Imogene + Willie prepares to unveil a limited series of jeans, created in partnership with the pioneering western denim brand Wrangler. This launch marks the initial phase of a three-part collection, featuring jeans inspired by Wrangler’s historical 10MWZ “Men’s With Zipper” design from 1964. These jeans are meticulously crafted from a robust 14.75 oz sanforized selvedge denim, boasting a deep “Galaxy Blue” hue. They are adorned with Wrangler’s signature leather patch, the distinctive “W” stitching on the rear pockets, and an internal Imogene + Willie label. Notably, these garments are produced domestically in the USA and represent some of the final creations utilizing genuine Cone White Oak selvedge denim.

The Scarcity and Pursuit of Remaining Stock

Imogene + Willie, established in 2009 with a focus on local production, has consistently utilized Cone White Oak denim for most of its jeans and ensures all garments are manufactured in the USA. Their commitment extends to “The Cotton Project,” a line of jeans and tees produced from cotton and indigo cultivated within 400 miles of their Nashville headquarters. Upon learning of White Oak’s impending closure, the company took immediate action, investing heavily to acquire as much of the remaining fabric as possible. This scramble was a shared sentiment among denim producers, as the mill’s closure signified the end of large-scale selvedge denim production in America, prompting a widespread effort to secure the dwindling supply.

Challenges in Quantifying and Locating Authentic Denim

While the limited quantity of unutilized Cone White Oak denim is generally acknowledged, pinpointing the exact remaining volume proves to be an elusive task. Industry insiders, including Imogene + Willie’s head of people and culture, Jackie Berkley, admit to the difficulty of this assessment, largely due to the intricate structure of the textile sector. Historically, major brands placed direct orders with the White Oak mill, often collaborating with technicians to develop specialized fabrics. Any surplus or residual material would then be acquired by “jobbers,” intermediaries who purchase fabric remnants at reduced prices and distribute them to smaller producers unable to meet factory minimums.

The Role of Intermediaries in Denim Distribution

These jobbers are believed to hold a substantial portion of the remaining deadstock White Oak. However, given its low volume and unique characteristics, many wholesalers are often unaware of its existence. Roy Slaper, the late founder of Roy Denim, recounted an anecdote about a contact who frequently referred to it as “Cone salvage denim,” highlighting a common misunderstanding within the trade. This illustrates the specialized nature of the fabric and the fragmented knowledge base within the broader textile industry, where generalist traders may not fully appreciate the distinct qualities of specific denims.

The Intricacies of Cone Denim Varieties

Adding another layer of complexity, White Oak was not solely responsible for the rigid, vintage-style selvedge cherished by denim enthusiasts. The mill produced a diverse array of denim types. Slaper recalled a San Francisco-based jobber attempting to sell him “Cone fabric” that did not meet his specific requirements. He emphasized that “All Cone is not the same,” noting variations in grades, shades, weights, and even the presence of non-selvedge options. This nuance makes the acquisition of a desired roll of Cone Mills selvedge a considerable challenge.

Individual Artisans and the Future of Heirloom Denim

For independent artisans like Tilden Yamamoto of Tilden Jeans in Waterloo, Montana, securing a pristine roll of Cone Mills selvedge is a monumental achievement. Yamamoto crafts his “Barn Find” jeans from a reserve of 13 oz. shrink-to-fit selvedge White Oak, originally developed for Levi’s. This stock was serendipitously discovered by Raleigh Denim founder Victor Lytvinenko at a former Levi’s sewing contractor in North Carolina, subsequently passing through Slaper before reaching Yamamoto. With enough denim to last “many years” at his current production rate, Yamamoto contemplates retirement once his supply is exhausted. This bespoke approach is sustainable for individual makers but not for larger entities like Imogene + Willie or industry giants like Wrangler.

The Revival of American Selvedge Denim Manufacturing

In 2019, Vidalia Mills, a Louisiana-based startup, briefly ignited hope within the denim community by acquiring White Oak’s machinery with aspirations of continuing the tradition of American-made selvedge. Imogene + Willie was an early patron, yet Vidalia struggled with quality control and inconsistency issues, ultimately ceasing operations in 2024. The closure sparked fears that White Oak’s iconic looms would be relocated overseas, ending a 120-year legacy. Fortunately, Mount Vernon Mills, a leading denim producer established in 1845, acquired the looms. After a year of restoration, Mount Vernon Mills, which supplies major brands like Wrangler, Levi’s, and Carhartt, is nearing the launch of its selvedge production line at its Trion, Georgia plant. This development offers a promising future for American-made selvedge denim, with Imogene + Willie anticipating manufacturing collaborations by year-end.

A New Era for American-Made Denim

The Trion plant of Mount Vernon Mills, conveniently located just 170 miles from Nashville, will enable Imogene + Willie to uphold its dedication to American-made jeans. While this may not be the fabled Cone White Oak selvedge, its arrival is timely given the diminishing global supply of Greensboro-woven denim. In the interim, the Imogene + Willie x Wrangler collaboration offers 292 pairs of men’s jeans crafted from authentic Cone White Oak. Unless a substantial new source of Cone denim emerges, this collaboration may represent a final opportunity for enthusiasts to acquire a tangible piece of American denim history.